DITRA Matting neutralises the stress occurring in the tile covering and prevents the penetration of moisture. That makes me feel better in knowing what my options are. I've been checking around, and the best advice I've received is to use 3/4 Advantech over the original floors, before laying new 3/4" hardwoods. Hardwood over 1/2", I'm not sure, I think over 5/8" was what builders would do. The extra weight often means extra subfloor thickness must be added to prevent sag. The matting significantly improves load distribution, by transferring the load directly to the substrate. Synthetic flooring and surface coatings: In principle, the surface must be load bearing and prepared in such a way that a suitable tile adhesive will adhere to it and anchor the fleece on the underside of the DITRA Matting. I would read it a few times. Check the required thickness required subfloors over joists of your construction (how far apart are the joists?). Tiling can begin straight after the DITRA matting is installed. Structural plank subflooring : Sufficiently load bearing structural plank subflooring in tongue and groove construction, with the appropriate screws in place, is suited as a substrate for ceramic tiles. Prior to installing DITRA matting it is important to make sure that the substrates are even, load bearing, clean and compatible. Concrete and pre-stressed concrete may build up tension because of deflection. Screw 4" on center over the whole floor, and into the joists with stainless or coated deck screws. I understand it's going to need a transition piece between both rooms, but in the future, the two bedrooms and bathroom that are connected to the living room will be redone and I can then build up the floors so they are flush with the kitchen. You are treating this new plywood as your subfloor, you aren't counting the plank subfloor for anything in terms of deflection resistance strength. Once your subfloor is good to go it’s time to install the DITRA. more like 20” or so. Would it be wise to cut a piece of that t/g and see what’s beneath it exactly, or should I be able to see if that’s what’s lying on the joists if I look at it in the basement? It does NOT help with deflection ratings. In essence you will be learning and then applying the entire 'tiling business' do get this done. Thank you @Creative Tile Eastern CT. I’ve lived with sheet vinyl previously and had this not been my forever home, I would have probably gone that route. The flooring should also have sufficient time to dry before you get started with the installation. My concern, is for any of the veneers to separate from the subsurface. And you still self leveling compound (SLC) to get this smooth/flat. This underlayment acts like a shock absorber for your hardwood floors, distributing the load more evenly to prevent noticeable wear and tear. Cut DITRA matting to size if required, then embed the anchoring fleece on the underside of the matting into the adhesive so that its entire surface is strongly bonded. Substrates on which the matting can be installed must always be checked for their suitability to make sure they are level, load-bearing, clean and compatible with the materials to be used. I do not know if it was poorly constructed or if this naturally happened over time, but the tongues and grooves of the planks across much of … floor leans slighty but is level all the way across, it is 3/4 inch tongue adn groove, when i originally thought it was 1/2 inch. Without the vapour barrier in place, you can't do much until you figure out how to incorporate this into the home. Thanks @SJ McCarthy! The longest span is 15'. And it also makes a lot of sense as to why I've never gotten a follow up. If you REALLY want to keep your height down, you can go all the way to the joists and lay new 3/4" tongue and groove sturd-i-floor throughout + DITRA. Demo that tongue and groove floor, and anything else until you are down to your original subfloor, which will probably also be planks. The synthetic base separates the floor from concrete dampness (not floods or heavy water), and the OSB top creates a flat subfloor that can be nailed into or simply covered with a variety of flooring materials. The structure comes from plywood. This may make Ditra a better choice if moisture from below is a concern, such as with some outdoor applications or installations over concrete. Could we just replace the existing 1/4 plywood or should we maybe lay down 1/2 plywood, then tile? This plywood is made from thin sheets of (usually southern pine) veneer that are cross-laminated and glued together forming 4" x 8" sheets that are either 5/8" or 3/4" thick. Here's what to know before you buy, Engineered wood flooring offers classic looks and durability, and can work with a range of subfloors — even concrete, Antique wood subfloors are finding new life as finished floors. Personally I would throw down some 1/4" plywood and put in some updated sheet vinyl. I have 3/4" OSB subfloor that I want to tile over. DITRA Matting neutralises the stress occurring in the tile covering and prevents the penetration of moisture. The planks are 7" wide and 3/4" thick, tongue and groove with 1/4" gaps. The newest versions are stunning and can look like tile...without being tile. A mud sub floor over wire mesh and felt is the only way to ensure a proper foundation. The house is 45 years old. If your joists are 16" on center and you can use 5/8" plywood, you may end up as little as 1/4" higher than your hardwood. DITRA-HEAT combines the flexibility of loose heating cables with the ease of ... 3/4" nom. Then DITRA over the top, and lay your tile. Engineered flooring can be a solid option, but PLEASE perform thorough due diligence to determine the company's history with the product, warranty details, references, etcetera. minimum subfloor thickness – 19/32", 5/8" nom. (16 mm) tongue-and-groove with 1/8" (3 mm) gap between sheets Substrate Preparation verify that subfloor panels are properly fastened to framing members any leveling of the subfloor must be done prior to installing DITRA and DITRA-XL Movement Joints DITRA and DITRA-XL do not eliminate the need for movement joints, including perimeter Movement Joints DITRA-HEAT and DITRA-HEAT-TB do not Mix up modified thin-set. Adding support of jacking up the joists from below is a good option. The Matting means the tensions occurring (in the floor and wall area) between the concrete and the tile covering are absorbed. See how, where and when to use this durable, easy-to-clean material, See exciting new stoneware looks from Italy’s big ceramic tile and bath show, Goodbye, shag; hello, fab! You will need to know your joists distances. Is it dirt? The tongue and groove is 3/4"x 3 3/4" and run perpendicular to the joists. The home was built in the 1960s and the subfloor consists of 3/4" thick tongue and groove planks running diagonal to the joists. Cement? If you still want to just stay with the tongue and groove and do not want to add or replace with a subfloor you might want to use a membrane. I am installing ceramic tile in a 10 x 10 kitchen with diagonal plank sub floor and tongue & groove hardwood floor. Shalom, Fletcher. Screws are needed to fix down the new sub-floor. Of if you REALLY insist on being perfect, get down to the joists (yep...open gap in the kitchen where you can fall through to the basement) and then build up from there. Hello, My house currently has 3/4" tongue-and-groove planks as a sub-floor. Even with a decoupling layer of plywood, there is no way to make sure there aren't big voids or uneven areas in the wood floor that will bounce and crack your tile. Plywood and chipboard: These materials are particularly prone to deformation under the influence of moisture. Yes, it would have been better to take a straight edge before laying the plywood. or plywood subfloor Areas of Application over any even and structurally sound OSB or ... installation system for ceramic and stone tile over wood substrates. Don't remove the tongue and groove subfloor please. 2. Last night we removed some tiles, and it looks like there was a 1/4 plywood that sat over the tongue and groove subfloor. Pulling up tongue-and-groove flooring can be tedious and time-consuming -- more so when the boards are glued -- but it's not a test of carpentry skills. Understanding this industry, I'd rather not take an uninformed chance and stumble to the kitchen one morning. I read over the Schluter PDF where it had the strengths of various types of tile listed as well as a … (19 mm) tongue-and-groove • minimum underlayment thickness – 11/32", 3/8" nom. It works over concrete or wood subfloors to prevent decay. Would we absolutely need backboard? DITRA matting is particularly useful when installing underfloor heating and provides a decoupling layer between the underfloor heating and the tiles. Structural plank subflooring Sufficiently load bearing structural plank subflooring in tongue and groove construction, with the appropriate screws in place, is … nom. Each joist construction has different requirements when tiles are to be added. Modern kitchen renovations. The main concern is that the center of the floor is high running with the T&G from one end to … I believe the existing tile is ceramic and has cracked in many places. And don't forget the sanding machine to knock down the seams. Remove everything down to the subfloor. And then you have to BUILD UP the subfloor to ensure you have the right THICKNESS to achieve the right DEFLECTION RATING. Perhaps since it’s only about a 300 sq foot job, it’s not worth their time, or they’re not being realistic in letting me know they don’t have the capacity at the moment. The bright orange uncoupling membrane is instantly recognisable and the range of benefits it provides to an installation makes it easy to see why it’s one of our best sellers. I’ll check out the link. Balconies / terraces: As an uncoupling membrane, DITRA Matting neutralises the stresses between the substrate and the tile covering that are caused by the frequent and extensive temperature changes occurring on balconies. Masonry / mixed Substrates: Using the Matting stresses and cracks will not transfer to the tile covering. 1. Using green joists. Installing sheet vinyl will require an installer to do it...but it still should be cheaper than a DIY tile install that goes wrong. How you go about it will be between you and your architect/contractor. Look no further than Lithofin Stain-Stop. And then click enter. Demo your tile. 2. Wet rooms are, At Tile Fix Direct we choose the very best products to suit your every tiling need, so you can be, Know your Ceramic and Porcelain Cement Based Adhesives, The 10 Tiling Tools You Need in Your Toolbox, Product Feature: Kerakoll Green-Pro Matting. We saw that the t/g was basically flush with the living room hardwood, so we won't be able to avoid adding some height, though we'd like to keep it as low as possible without compromising strength. Need help updating 80's home and all it's honey oak everything, the rabbit hole of engineered wood floors, Fit a fridge and microwave in the kitchen. What Lies Beneath That Old Linoleum Kitchen Floor? For more detailed instructions check out the Schlüter DITRA PDF guide. Hi RFD, I've been looking for a tiler but unfortunately am falling short on time waiting for them to quote and the lack of availability. https://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications/188-handbook.html. To avoid buckling, subfloor panels should be spaced with a 1/8-inch gap at all edges and ends to provide room for naturally occurring expansion. I would imagine that Ditra would be the same. Now I don't mind so much if I have a higher kitchen floor than the living and dining room. Everything else is underlayment. Ditra? If you must have tile, then do it right. nom. Just ditra over the subfloor. So my house has 2x6 car decking/tongue and groove/whatever-you-want-to-call-it subfloor that I am going to tile over, both in the kitchen and the bathroom. Your subfloor will be under your hardwood. On the HD site there is a video that says I can do this as long as I first use a latex modified mortar with tiling backer board as an underlayment. I have a 2x6 tongue groove subfloor over beams on posts in a 1950's ranch style home in northern California. If you REALLY want to keep your height down, you can go all the way to the joists and lay new 3/4" tongue and groove sturd-i-floor throughout + DITRA. The floor joists are 2x9, 16" on center. A V-groove on a tounge and groove board will always be about 1/3 the thickness of the board, or about 3/16" on a 3/4" thick board. lay the radiant mat and cover with slc, let dry then tile. My husband and I are going to demo our kitchen in a week and are going to replace the tile floor that's there. With the application of DITRA matting, tile coverings can be installed as soon as the residual moisture is below 2.0%. Please ensure you have purchased and read the TCNA handbook. Interior surfaces like flooring require a vapour barrier to be incorporated into the home's foundation/flooring/etc. Older homes were not built with plywood subfloor, they used 2 x 6's. Tile Fix Direct, HTW, 1 Hollybush Lane, Aldershot, GU11 2PX, What Are The Differences Between Cement Based Adhesives? Thank you @Super Lumen for providing that info. Plan the layout of the plywood sheets so the long dimension … The most important and first thing you would need to do is verify deflection meets acceptable ratings for tile or stone. Use concrete board 1/2" only on the floors. I'm afraid it will add way more height than we anticipate. Through uncoupling the floor covering from the substrate, DITRA matting can stop stress cracks being transferred from the substrate to the surface covering. He wants to use it without another underlayment. If you have a plywood sub-floor I'd guess that you'll remove a ply or two in various places when trying to remove the Ditra later on. Then DITRA over the top, and lay your tile. Check with the tile companies to see which membranes they carry. That includes the rental of tools and purchase of multiple/thick high-end subfloor grade plywood (this is NOT the $1/sf stuff and you will need more than 3/4" for a proper deflection rating over 20" joists). I kind of thought that could have been flooring, but hubby and I weren’t sure. You will come up with a basic suggestions. I've seen some veneers glued together, on a subsurface that looked like cardboard, and others with a subsurface of solid strips, crossed in perpendicular layers and glued. Add plywood subfloor over it to get the deflection low enough to not crack your tile. The boards are laid lengthwise, perpendicular, over joists and joined together. @Destiny If you go in the basement and look up, whatever you see above your head is your subfloor. That's DEFINITELY a lot to take in! A floor being laid over top the old hardwood must have some form of barrier. 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